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He was soo cute, and definitely not someone you want hammering around in your new timberframe building!
Homesteading Adventures
in 14850
"CrowJoy": Mine is loosely based on the Moosewood cookbook recipe for zucchini feta pancakes, I just use whatever I have. Shred the zucc, add in whatever herbs you like (I usually freeze the chevre already herbed but mint and green onion is what the original calls for) and any onion/garlic/other veg you want, add about 6 eggs well beaten and the cheese. Add enough flour to get a good pancake consistency. For fun you can add panko (for crunchier) or baking soda/powder (for puffier) pancakes. Fry in shallow oil until the egg is cooked, drain, cool and freeze.I tried this recipe with about two large shredded zucchini, about a cup of (dry) goat chevre and lots of homegrown crushed garlic and chopped chocolate mint. I was not sure about the amount of flour and should have used more, liquid appeared in the batter about halfway through the frying. We had a whole stack of cakes and came out with at least four two and half person meals! Great, and the toddler gobbled them like french fries...
I've been doing some google research to figure out how to deworm our goat flock and what to use. I came across a very informative article (the whole website has lots of info and explanations):
There are three "classes" of deworming medication:
1) Avermectin (Ivermectin). The "clear" dewormers. Ivomec, Dectomax, and Cydectin/Quest Gel fall into this category. Effective against meningeal deer worm, lungworm, and lice. Not effective against tapeworm. Although some Ivermectin is labeled for injection, it produces a quicker "kill" when given orally to goats (Quest Gel is packaged in a plunger-style tube for use with large animals, making it both difficult and wasteful to use because calculating and controlling the dosage small enough for goats isn't easy).
2) Benzimidazoles. The "white" dewormers. Valbazen, Safeguard/Panacur, Synanthic, Telmin, Benzelmin, Anthelcide, TBZ. Effective against tapeworm. Do not treat pregnant does with Valbazen; it can cause abortions.
3) Imidazothiazole: Tramisol, Levasol, pyrantel, morantel. Pregnant does may abort if Tramisol is given to them. Additionally, the "safe" and "toxic" dosages of Tramisol are very close, making this product a potentially dangerous drug.
The Fias Co Farm website article about goat wormers is a great addition to this information.
Fias Co Farm also mentions Ivermectin or Ivermectin Plus (also Noromectin Plus, against liver fluke) as the most commonly used wormer. They recommend to worm everyone the injection dose (1 cc/ml per 50 lbs) but by mouth (drench = squirt down throat), repeat the same amount in 10 days, and again in 10 days - all to kill off any of the larvae and eggs that had not matured yet. And of course, rotate pastures if you can...
One of the more knowledgeable employees at Tractor Supply suggested to worm with a fenbendazole type wormer in fall and an ivermectin in spring, to get rid of both types of worms.
Something else mentioned to me by one of the goat exhibitors at the New York State Fair was DiMethox 12.5% added to the drinking water - though the information I can find mention it's not a wormer but against coccidiosis. Anyone have any other ideas?
Looks like our two Boer goat boys have a coccidiosis infection, so they will be medicated the next five days and hopefully Burger will see a complete recovery. He was turning into the incredible shrinking goat and after he got watery diarrhea I had the Cornell Ambulatory Services come by to check him (and Mountain Goat) out. They also took fecal samples for worms, we'll hear about that later (that way I should know for sure which family of dewormer to use).
A good phone number to have on hand if you live locally: the Cornell Ambulatory Services 607-253-3140, part of the Farm Animal Hospital. They charge a flat fee for coming based on mileage ($30 for us and we're on the other side of Ithaca) and then whatever they do. It was surprisingly affordable - and they came four people strong! Apparently it had been a slow day :-)Cornell Ambulatory Clinic has an excellent goat vet, Dr. Mary Smith who wrote “Goat Medicine”. I think she works mostly in the Ithaca, Danby, Enfield, Brooktondale, Freeville area but I am not sure. She has also helped most of the other Cornell Ambulatory vets become proficient with goats and their prices are similar to those of private vets. The ambulatory clinic can be reached by calling 607-253-3140. The vets are out on the road during the day and there is really no true clinic but their office is manned from about 8 am to 4 pm every day and then calls go through to an answering service. Dr. Pam Karner (272-1398) and Dr. Ann Chafee (387-8405) are private vets who both work with goats and can tell you of other vets that are in private practice that also do farm visits for goats.
From the Fias Co Farm goat husbandry website:
You need to wash your doe's udder before you milk her and dip her teats after. You can buy all kinds of products to do this with, but I have found it's cheaper and easier to use bleach (Clorox). Bleach is very effective in controlling and preventing mastitis (an inflammation of the mammary gland caused by bacteria). And interestingly enough, I have found that my homemade bleach wash made with Clorox is gentler on my doe's udders them commercial products. I have not had a case of "udder pox" or mastitis since I've started using Clorox udderwash/teat dip. Please do not use cheaper bleach for the wash, it will be harsher on your and your doe's skin.
Make only enough of this wash/dip for each milking. It does not keep. The bleach disperses fairly quickly and you can't guarantee the mixture's sanitizing strength/ability after a few hours. To make an udder wash/teat dip just mix:
I like to use the blue, Original Formula, Dawn dishwashing detergent, it's the best I have found. Like Bounty paper towels, I'd never use anything else. Dawn (the blue, original formula) is safe to mix with bleach. You must be very careful when mixing bleach with other products because toxic vapors can result.
To use, wash your doe or cows's udder well with your udder wash and dry with a disposable paper towel (Bounty) . Never place a "soiled" towel back in the wash. This will help keep the wash clean and reduce the risk of spreading any "nasties" from animal to animal. Milk the doe or cow. Now, dip her teats. For a teat dip cup I use disposable 3 oz. "Dixie" cups I buy at Sam's for $5 for 500. I'm not usually a big fan of disposable things, but when it comes to milking, disposable can be a good thing. Disposable means less chances of spreading any contaminates that may be lurking and waiting to spoil your milk or give your doe mastitis. You can use the same cup for all the does you are milking at that time. Dip the teats in the teat dip and let "air dry".